Friday, July 4, 2008
CHIANTI CLASSICO TASTING NEW YORK 2008
The Barone Ricasoli with a bottle of his famed Chianti. it was his Great great Granfather who originaly formulated Chianti more than 130 years ago.(Top Left)
(Top Right) Conti Sebastiani Capponi with
Daniel Bellino Zwicke and Joe Macari Jr.
(Bottom) Castel Vicchomaggio in Greve as
seen from the apartment of our Terrazzo
on the Estate of Castello Verazzano, Greve
CHIANTI CLASSICO TASTING 2008
On Monday , April 21st 2008 the greatly anticipated Chianti Classic Tasting was held at 583 Park Avenue. Hosted by the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, which is a Consortium of Professionals who are made up of Wine Producers (Proprietors and Winemakers) of the wine Chianti Classico. This group is not a Governmental Body but a private group of individuals that was created in 1924 to define the area of Chianti Classico and its wines, also called Chianti Classico and the manner and guidelines of how the wine was to be made and the parameters of what constitutes a Chianti Classico. Yes the name of the zone and the wine are the same, “Chianti Classico,’and the wine was actually name after the zone.
When the Consozvio Vino Chianti Classico was created in 1924, there did not exist any governmental bodies that now do to set guidelines and laws to which wines have to adhere to all over Italy.This is why the consorzio was created in the first place, in order to define which area was the “Classico” area and to maintain quality and consistency.
This Grand tasting held in New York on April 21, 2008 by the Chianti Consorzio was personally hosted by the President of the Consorzio, Marco Pallanti who is also the Enologist and proprietor along with Lorenza of the renowned estate of the
Castelo Di Ama in Gaiole in Chianti. As for myself, if feel that the wines of
Castelo Di Ama are overrated, grossly overpriced, and not worth the money. I actually have personally monikered the the “Gaja of Chianti” of Angelo Gaja and his wines, which are highly overrated and even more grossly overpriced, but that is all for another discussion.
Along with Dr. Pallanti the event was also hosted by esteemed Sommelier and wine writer David Lynch, who co-authored one of the Italian Wine Worlds most renowned books on the subject of Italian Wine, Vino Italiano along with Joseph Bastianich.
The tasting was made up of 40 producers of Chianti Classico of which there were over 150 different Chianti offered for tasting. The Chianti presented were both
Chianti Normale (base Chianti) and Chianti Riserva and the vintages ranged from 2001 to 2006.
Note that “Chianti Normale” or base Chianti does not infer that these Chianti are of a lesser quality. The styles are different and the base Chianti are to me and many others, actually more the true and traditional of Chianti as the weight is lighter more correct and less concentrated than the weight (body) of Chianti Reserva.
As with many subjects there is debate and differences of and agreement of what is true traditional Chianti is and what is not. I as a Wine Professional of many years who has focused mainly on Italian Wine and a great lover of Chianti and a traditionalist at heart, of course I am of the Old-School Traditional Chianti. I do feel that the laws of the Chianti Consorzio are not correct and are not for the Great Tradition of Chianti in that the wine Chianti when created by the Baron Ricasoli almost 150 years ago was created as a wine made up as a blend of local grapes that was dominated by Sangiovese as its main grape and that Sangiovese was to be the primary grape of Chianti and to give it its special character along with small percentages of other local blending grapes such as Cannaiolo, Colorino, Trebbiano, Ceiligiolo, Malvasia Nera, and Mammolo.
I feel, as do other respected authorities on Italian Wine, such as one of my esteemed peers Charles Scicilnoe feel that the Italian Government and Chianti Consorzio are by allowing Cabernet, Merlot, and Syhrah into Chianti, are ruining this “Great Wine” Chianti and its great traditions.
Just a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot in what is allowed to be Chianti, completely changes the feel and taste of Chianti and what, according to tradition it should be.
“It’s not Chianti anymore!” Not it if has the slightest trace of Cabernet or Merlot, and traditionalist like myself, Charles Scicilone and others will not cease our Crusade until the day that the Italian Government and Chianti Consorzio come to their sense and completely eliminate Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, or any non-native grape variety from ever entering Chianti again.” We wait patiently, but why is it taking these people so long to act. They ruin one of their own National Treasures and every year that these grapes that are not of Chianti Classico, is another bad vintage for any producer that uses them.
Let’s note that although the sacrilege of allowing Cabernet, Merlot, and others into Chianti, it is not mandatory and is at each individual producers (Wine Estate) choice whether to put these grapes in their wine or to leave them out and thus make “Real,”
True, Traditional Chianti. There are a number of Estates that make real true Chianti devoid of any trace what so ever, of the dreaded Cabernet or Merlot. Some of these estate are; Castello Volpaia, Castello Verazzno, Monsanto, Castello Querceto, and
Castel Vicchomaggio to name a few. These estates are to be highly commended and there should be more. If all the producers in Chianti had enough pride, non would ever permit a bottle of wine that they label be called Chianti if it has Cabernet, Syrah, Merlot or any non-native grapes in it. Hey if you have acres of Cabernet or Merlot planted on your estate and want to use them, “Fine.” Just don’t call the wine Chianti! Classify it as IGT and call it “Super Tuscan,” it’s OK by me, “Just don’t call it Chianti!”
If you want to make a wine and call it Chianti, make sure it is a blend. A wine that is made of 100% Sangiovese is allowed to be called Chianti, though it should not. As per the original Chianti Recipe, Chianti is always a blend, made primarily of Sangiovese with other native grape varieties such as; Mammolo, Cannaiolo, Malvasia Nera, Trebbiano, and Colorino and Chinati should always be made with mostly Sangiovese with other minor blending grapes. It should never be made solely of Sangiovese (though according to the Government it can, but what does the Gov’t. know?) but have at least one or more other native grapes, even if it’s just 2 or 3%, there “Must” be at least one other native grape varietal accompanying the Sangiovese, it should not stand alone. This must be changed in order to make true Traditional Chianti.
Daniel Bellino Zwicke April 2008
Some of our Favorites of the Chainti Classico Tatsing 2008 were:
CHIANTI CLASSICO, VILLA CALCINAI 2004 from Conti Capponi in Greve
CHIANT CLASSICO, CASTELLO BROLIO 2001 from the Brone Ricasole Gaiole
CHIANTI CLASSICO RIS. ROCCA GUICCIARDO, CASTELLO BROLIO 2005
CHIANTI CLASSICO, FONTERUTOLI 2005 from Marchese Mazzei, Castellina
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Donata Venturini Hosts LAMBRUSCO DINNER at DeL POSTO
MARIO BATALI slurps SPAGHETTI with Joe Bastianich as Mom Lidia looks on at Del Posto in Chelsea
Leonardo Locasio of Winebow with Marelisa Allegrini (Great AMARONE producer) with Sommelier DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE at Wine Tasting downtown New York
Butcher at ALBANESE MEAT MARKET(Italian Butcher)
DONATA VENTURINI HOSTED WINE DINNER at DEL POSTO
Monday June 30, 2008. Donata Venturini of the Emilia Romagnan wine estate Baldini Venturini hosted a Lambrusco/ Emilia Romagnan wine dinner at Del Posto in the Meatpacking District of New York last night. The dinner was attended by members of the Wine Press, including Natasha Lardera, Pino Cavallo of Gazettino, Italian Wine Industry people like Leonardo Locasio the founder and proprietor of Winebow, Salvatore Evangelista of Supreme Wines, and Daniel Bellino Zwicke.
The feature of the evening was the wines of Baldini Venturini which were paired along with other wines to a phenomenal 7 course menu created by Del Posto’s Executive Chef Mark Ladner.
The evening started with a cocktail hour of Carpene Malvoltti Prosecco followed by the sit down dinner.
We began the meal with perfect Prosciutto di Parma paired with Venturini’s Malvasia,
Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa 2007. This wine was absolutely extraordinary. Immediately as I brought the wine to my nose I could smell a complex array of aromas led by what smelled like Over-Ripe Pears and Apples. It was phenomenal. In the mouth the wine tasted of a great Sauterne minus the sweetness. This wine is a absolute “Winner,” Unfortunately these wines are not yet available in the U.S. but is sure to be so soon as a few of the Wine Importers present were hot for these wines and practically fighting to see who will be Lucky enough to have them in their Portfolio.
The second course was Aragosta con Salsa Americana (Lobster Salad with Campari Sauce) paired with the Tocai Friuliano,Livio Feluga 2007 which paired nicely with the Lobster. The Tocai exhibited classic Tocai flavors of crisp Apple with hints of Figs and nuts. Very nice from one of Friuli’s top producers Livio Feluga, who in this Wine Guys eyes (nose and mouth) makes the most wonderful Pinot Grigio on the entire market.
Livio Feluga’s Pinot Grigio has a beautiful copper tint in color, with excellent fruit aromas, and wonderful Pear and Kiwi with a tad of savory ness that is absolutely delicious. This wine taste of ripe Pears and Kiwi with a twinge of savory-ness.
Feluga’s Pinot Grigio is perfection when it comes to representing this grape variety to it ultimate peak. I am not one to hardly ever drink Pinot Grigio, but I would never say “No” to the fine wine. It is a joy to drink.
Note: We did not drink Livio Feluga Pinot Grigio at the dinner, but with the mention of the Tocai that we had, I couldn’t pass up the chance to talk about this wonderful wine.
For our “Third Course” Chef Ladner sent us Gargenelli Al Ragu Bognese, which was absolute “Perfection Personified” on a plate. The Bolognese was so wonderful that this guy wish that the portion on the plate was double of what it actually was. Rich and so sublime. It was cruel and a tease to us to eat something so flavorsome, and just have a tiny taste. “Se la Vie.” Lambrusco Rosso, Reggiano, Venturini Baldini 2007 with its invigorating flavors of Sour Cherries and Plum was the perfect foil to the “
Perfect Bolognese.” The wine was refreshing and wonderful and a delight to drink.
Our fourth course, Salsiccia di Foe Gras was quite tasty. The Lambrusco Spumante, Rubino del Cerro, Venturini Baldini 2007 paired with the Foe Gras sausage was an excellent match.
Fifth Course was Beef Tenderloin that melted in the mouth, grass fed from Colorado. Superb, paired with Barolo Damilano.
For desert we were served two courses. The first Dolce was Citus Fantasia (Lime and Grapefruit Gelato) paired with two tasty desert wines; a delisious Marzemino, Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa, Venturini Baldini 2007 and Malvasia, Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa, Venturini Baldini 2007 which was delicate and elegant with lovely Pear and Apple flavors.
We were then served the second desert course of Biscotti Assortiti (Assorted Cookies), paired with 10 Year Tawny Port, Neiport NV.
The dinner, the food, wine, and company were a “Joy.” It was quite a wonderful evening.
Let us point out the fact that in the 1970 their was a “Tons” of awful cheap and cheese Lambrusco dumped on the U.S. which is not real Lambrusco but wine that was created to sell to those with uneducated and unsophisticated palates. There were two or three companies who ahd excellent ad and markdting campaigns geared toward that specific audience. The wine was compared to other awful cheap wines like Boone’s Farm. These people who made these so-called Lambrusco’s did a great job of marketing and selling Millions upon Million’s of bottles of the “Plunk.” They also did a great job of giving real true Lambrusco a Super Big Black Eye and oh-so bad reputation of which was never deserved , just as massed produced Soave and Valpolicella received an undeserved bad naneat the time.
True Lambrusco wonderful to drink. It is a nice refreshing unique alternative to drink now and then as something different. Luckily the Lambrusco Consorzio has done a fine job in recent years to kill this negative outlook of Lambrusco. The producers have done a great job making tasty true and traditional Lambrusco and New Yorkers and other Americans of good-taste and education have been taking to this Lovely wine. “Thank God, Lambrusco is finally getting the good due it deserves,” so has Valpolicella and Soave. These wines are good and pleasant to drink and it is nice to see more Americans discovering and accepting them. Even Loving them. Last year, more Lambrusco was sold then ever in the U.S. Have you tried some yet? Do so.
Monday, June 30, 2008
The COOLEST RESTAURANT YOU DON't KNOW!!!
This joint is one of my FAVES!!!! Nobody knows about it! Garaunteed if ask 1,000 New Yorkers if they've ever heard about this place, let alone if they'd ever been there, you be hard pressed to find a one. I'm gonna let the "Cat Out of the Bag." People should start paying me for this.
Yes native-newyork-pics.blogspot.com F. Restaurant on Clinton Street down on the Lower East Side (LES) of New York is without a doubt one of the Coolest restaurants you could ever dream of going to. Paris Hilton has never been there.
F. Restaurant is a restaurant that serves incrediably tasty Puerto Rican Cusine. "Bet you've never had any? Yes you!"
You will pretty much only find Lationos and Latinas at this joint. i've been going their for about 15 years now. "Love It!"
The food is oh so tasty, and the prices are tailor made for the sluggish ecconmic times we now live in (2008). Hope we go on a upswing soon. "Very soon." Most dishes are about $1.20 or $1.50 a piece. Yes this is not a typo, dishes that cost $1.20 a piece. You can make a small meal out of just two. if you're Papa Relleno which is a Fried Potato Ball that isstuffed with ground beef as well. "Yum!" They also have wonderful Morcilla (Blood Sausage) and Pollo Fritto (fried chicken).
They have the "Coolest" sign you have ever seen hanging over the counter area that says "If WIFE CAN'T COOK, DON'T DIVORCE HER, BRING HER HERE," Bring her here to eat with you." The sign is written in both Spanish and English. "Cool as Hell!"
You've gotta LOVE IT, and if you ever go, you'll just Love "F. Restaurant" down on the Lower East Side.
F. Restaurant..... Clinton Street, just North of Delancy
PICTURES ABOVE: F. RESTAURANT, COOL SIGN in F. Restaurant an DUMPLING HOUSE on Rivington, both down on The LOWER EAST SIDE
NOTE: "Sadly F. RESTAURANT is CLOSED. They went out of business a few years back. I loved this place as dide many loyal customers. You could have a tasty unique meal there for ust 4 or 5 dollars. I loved the Stuffed Plantains ( Sweet Plantians stuffed with Beef & Peas) Yumm ! I usually used to get one of those and a Stuffed Potato Ball, all for juts $3.30 ... That just can't be beat. We miss you
F. Restaurant, R.I.P.
DUMPLING HOUSE ON Rivington STREET is without a doubt, the Greatest Restaurant Food deals in all of NEW YORK. Five "DELICIOUS PORK DUMPLINGS" for a BUCK. That's right $1.00. You just can't beat that. Not even anywhere in South East Asia where you can Thee Msot AMAZING STREET FOOD in the WORLD. You get amazing Food on the Streets of Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Saigon , and Hanoi for just .75 Cents or a dollar. The thing is, most people in NEW YORK probably make close to 10 times the amount of Money that most people in Sout East Asia do. so when you can get a amazing dish for the same amount of Money as In Sout East Asia and you're in NEW YORK making considerably more, 5 "PERFECT PORK DUMPLINGS" in NEW YORK may very well be the "Greatest" food deal in the entire WORLD.
2 HOTDOGS and 1 of their famous Fruit Drinks at Gray's Papaya is pretty good as well, but I think the Dumpling House may have them beat...
Sunday, June 29, 2008
PORTO RICO COFFEE ROCCO'S PASTRY FAICCO'S PORK STORE in GREENWICH VILLAGE
PORTO RICO COFFEE, ROCCO'S PASTRY,and FAICCO'S PORK STORE, all in GREENWICH VILLAGE, NEW YORK and all three are the "BEST' of their prospective fields. Rocco's pastry is without a doubt the Best Italian Pastry Shop in all of New York City. Their Cookies are Killer, as are their Pastries, and Cakes. Try the Lemon Cookies, Cannoli, and Rhum Babba. Tehy have Great Italian Ices as well and excellent coffee.
Speaking of EXCELLENT COFFEE, there is none better than PORTO RICO COFFEE with their Flagship and origianl store on Bleecker Street near 6 th Avenue, with a location on St. Marks Place in the East Village and another in Soho (pictured above) on Thompson Street. Porto Rico Coffee buy their own "Green Coffee Beans" and Roast all their Coffee themselves in the back of their Bleecker Street Store. They have a tremendous variety of diffent roast; Italian Espresso, French Roast, Mocha, Hazelnut, Danish Roast, Peter's Blend, and a host of others, about 60 different varieties. Their prices are phenominal. "Cheap." It's a mazing, they often have coffee on sale for as low as $5.99 a pound. It really amazes me as to why anyone in their right mind would ever by coffee from Starbucks at $12.95 a pound when the coffee at Porto Rico Coffee is far Superior and tremendously cheaper. "Better and Cheaper?"
"Are people out of their minds, why buy an inferior Mass Produced Chain Coffee at close to twice the price of a product that is Superior, "PORTO RICO COFFEE is the BEST in New York," and for less!!! "Dahhh!!???"
Speaking of the "BEST," across the street from Rocco's Pastry and 1 block West of Porto Rico's main store, you have the Best Pork Store in New York, Faicco's on Bleecker near Cornelia Street. You can get the most amazing fresh Italian Sweet and Hot Sausage, along with Sopressetta, Brociola, Pork Chops, Steaks, and Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano. Everything at Faicco's is of Superior Quality, You can't get any better than Faicco's, Rocco's Pastry, or Porto Rico Coffee.
Also on the street with Faicco's and Rocco's is the famous Murray's Cheese Shop and John's Pizzweria for some of the "Best Pizza" on the Planet.
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
photos Daniel Bellino Zwicke
Saturday, June 28, 2008
PROSCIUTTOLESS In NEBRASKA
PROSCIUTTOLESS in NEBRASKA
It’s a well-known fact that there have been ten’s of thousands of displaced Italian-American New Yorkers over the years. Former Italian-American New Yorkers who have been in serious distress and mental anguish over the lack of good Italian restaurants and availability of quality Italian food products in the rest of the country, excluding of course cities like Boston, Philly, and San Francisco.
It’s a sad fact-of-life that many cities and towns in the U.S. are completely devoid of good Italian restaurants and specialty stores where people of Italian descent in need good fresh Italian sausages, bread, Prosciutto, Salami, Parmigiano Reggiano, olive oil, fresh mozzarella, cannoli, or any other simple necessities required to live a happy productive life, can purchase real good quality Italian food products or go out to eat at a proper Italian Restaurant or Pizzeria.
“Yes, believe it or not,” there are many places in this great nation of ours where the local citizenry are denied some of life’s greatest treats. It may be alright for the local natives who were born in these deprived areas, as for Italian-Americans who move to one of these places for whatever reasons, the deprivation caused by the lack of good honest Italian food is enough to cause un-nesesary anguish, yearning, and outright sadness in these displaced Italians.
Those of us who live in New York are extremely fortunate to have a plethora of the simple pleasures of outstanding Italian restaurants, pizzerias, bakeries, caffe’s, pasta shops, pork stores, wine shops, and Italian Specialty Shops that supply us with every Italian culinary treat under the Sun.
Yes we are blessed with restaurants like Rao’s,
San Domenico, Gino’s, Patsy’s, Elio’s, Lupa, Becco and others that serve tasty authentically prepared Italian food along with bakeries that bake magnificent bread, biscotti, cheesecake, cannoli, and other pastries. We have the best Pizzerias outside of Italy, like; Totonno’s, Lombardi’s, and John’s of Bleeker Street.
New Yorkers have great pork stores that prepare wonderful fresh sausage, braciole, Sopressetta, Cacatitorini, fresh mozzarella, and more. There are great Italian food emporiums where you can buy imported olive oils, vinegar, pasta, Prosciutto de Parma, Mortadella from Bologna, Gorgonzola, Fontina, Aceto Baslamico from Modena, porcini secco, and the sinful Tartufo Bianco when they are in season from mid October through early January is any true gourmands favorite time of the year, “White Truffle Season.”
We New Yorkers are blessed with amazing Italian Caffes that serve authentic pastries, gelato, and properly made espresso and cappuccino. Culinarily, we want for nothing!
“My condolences to those Americans who are deprived these simple little pleasures, excuse me, necessities to good, happy living!”
Prosciuttoless in Nebraska is excerpted from Daniel Bellino Zwicke's upcoming new Book, "La TAVOLA" filled with the adventures of ITALIAN AMERICAN NEW YORKERS and their Culinary Adventures cooking, tjrowing Dinner Parties,shopping for Italian Pastries at Rocco's Pastry Shop, Bread at Vesuvio's, and PROSCIUTTO, Salami, and Sausages at Faiacco's Pork Store. Dining out at such restaurants as Bar Pitti, Gino's, Elio's and Da Silvano's, rubbing shoulders with the likes of Calvin Klein, Paris Hilton, Richard Gere, Graydon Carter, and David Bowie just to name a few. They eat Pizza at John's Pizzeria,and Lombardi's, they cook, they laugh they cry.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
WAVERLY INN has STOLEN DaSILVANO'S THUNDER
GRAYDEN CARTER and his WAVERLY INN it seems has "STOLEN" the THUNDER from SILVANO MARCHETTO and his famed Greenwich Village Italian Eatery "Da Silvano" on 6th Avenue. Da Silvano was long thee In Spot, Hottest Celebrity Haunt in Town. That was up until about a year and a half ago when Graydon Carter bought and Re-Opened the Ye Old Waverly Inn along with NIGHTCLUB and Boutique Hotel Impresario ERIC GOODE (AREA, Maritime Hotel, Bowery Hotel, Bowery Bar)
For a number of YEARS, every mover and shaken in the Movie, Record, Fashion, and Publishing Business used to pack Da Silvano, practically every night of the week. You would regularly find Gwyneth Palthrow, David Bowie, Calvin Klein, Richard Gere,
PAUL McCARTNEY, KEITH RICHARDS, MICK JAGGER, Sy Newhouse, Madonna, Giselle, Stephanie Seymour, Pamela Anderson, the LIST goes on and on and on. "I think you get the picture?" Even Graydon Carter used to eat Dinner at Da Silvano an average of 5 nights a week. He had his own table, as did writer NICK TOSHES who had his regular table as well and had lunch every Monday thru Friday, holding court with Editors, Literary Agents, Patti Smith, Oliver Ray, and Jerry Stahl.
Nowadays, every Celebrity you can think of and their Grandmother fill the tables of the WAVERLY INN each and every night of the week, you might find The Beckams, Jessica Simpson, Jennifer Lopez and husband Mark Anthony, Calvin Klein, and yes Graydon Carter holding court. As Hot as Da Silvano once was with tons of Movie Stars, Rock Star, and even Porn Stars (Paris Hilton, Pamela Anderson), the Waverly inn gets 10 fold of the Celebrities that Da Silvano once had. There are at least 6 to 10 Paparazzzi hanging out in front of the WAVERLY INN each and every night. They know they will get some CELEBRITY SHOTS, and beleive me, "they do."
Silvano started "LOSING IT" even a good year before Graydon opened the WAVERLY. Many of his former customers tired of being "RIPPED OFF," price gowged for insanely "OVERPRICED WINE" and Mediocre FOOD. Yes some of the Food is Good, but if you don't know what you are doing, you can easily get a bad meal. Stay away from the Antipasto called the Misto Casa which is a Table that is filled with MEDIOCRE Vegetable dishes that sit aaround and get sour. Don't order any items like Roast Baby Lamb or Roast Duck as they might have been cooked three or four days before you eat them.
If you want to get a good meal, only order Pasta Dishes, Fish, or Steak.
Da Silvano, still si one of the biggest Celebrity Spots in New York, but it has lost much of its Thunder to the WAVERLY, that and the fact that the food is not all that good and the prices are, as CRAZY EDDY used to say, "INSANE." If you want to eat some great ITALIAN FOOD, all you have to do is walk about 12 feet to BAR PITTI next store to Silvano's and has thee absolute "BEST ITALIAN FOOD in New York, "Bar Pitti."
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Keith McNally to Re-Open MINETTA TAVERN
Keith McNally, the man who brought New York some of its most wonderful Landmarks in the form of the ODEON, Cafe Luxenbourg, Lucky Strike, Pravda, Balthazar, and Pastis is at it again. He has purchase the venerable old Greenwich Village institution "The MINETTA TAVERN" on Macdougald Street at the corner of Minetta Lane. Mr. McNally will be opening the Minetta Tavern sometime in the early part of 2009 with Executive Chefs RIAD NASIR and Lee Hansen who both helped Keith open and operate Balthazar, Pastis, and Schiller's. The food is supposed to be Classic French.
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