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Dirty French 2 Stars NY TIMES PETE WELLS

 

Pete Wells of New York Times 2 Stars Dirty French

Dirty French Dining Room

 

Ludlow Street

 

Lower East Side of New York

 

Pete Wells, New York Times Food Critic gives Dirty French a lukewarm

2 Star Review .. Two Stars is not what you thrive for when you open a restaurant like this. You strive for 4 Stars, are happy if you get 3, not dejected with 2 but you really want at least 3 ..  So The Torrisi Boys Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi are at it again, with their latest venture Dirty French, and as the name would imply, it's a French Restaurant serving French Food, but French Food The Torris Boys way, and we here it's most Rich Torrisi at the helm on this one.

 

Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi actually met a  French Restaurant, Daniel Boulud's Daniel where they were both cooks, met, became friends, and the rest is New York Restauramt History as this dynamic due went on to creat the hugely popular Torrisi Italian Specialties, Parm, and uber hot Carbone, as well as an outpost of Parm at Citi Feild, and now Dirty French their first forray into the French Culinary World as owners.

 

Carbone and Torrisi though their frist few establsihments are Italian, the two have extensive training with French food in culinary school, at Daniel, and working abroad in French Restaurants. 

 

 

 

 

 

THE FEAST of THE 7 FISH 

 

ITALIAN CHRISTMAS

 

 

 

 

 

 

SUNDAY SAUCE

 

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

 

LEARN HOW to MAKE

 

SUNDAY SAUCE alla CLEMENZA

 

 

FEAST of THE 7 FISH

                                              

The Feast of The 7 Fish

The Feast of The 7 Fish

Kindle Edition

The Italian Christmas Feast of The 7 Fish? Ever Wonder about it" Its meaning, make-up, rituals, and of course "How To Make It?" Well Ladies and Gentlemen, You're in Luck." Renowned Chef and Cookbook author Daniel Bellino-Zwicke has just come up with his latest "THE FEAST of The 7 FISH" An Italian-American Christmas Eve Feast, and just in Time for Christmas. If you've ever wanted to know about this wonderful Italian Christmas Tradition and How to make it, then this book is for you. It has Everything you need to know to make this Wonderful Italian Feast and on all levels ..  

THE FEAST of The 7 FISH

Feast of The 7 Fish

by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke

in PAPERBACK & KINDLE EDITIONS AMAZON.com

La Vigilia     


 My Aunt Helen used to make the famous Italian Christmas Eve Dinner, The Feast of 7 Fishes, The 7 Fish of the Seven Sacraments. I know she made it because I used to hear her talking about it when I was a little kid. Although I shared many wonderful meals with my dear Aunt Helen, I never had the pleasure of having the famous Christmas Eve Dinner “La Vigilia” Feast of Seven Fish with her. We always had Christmas Eve dinner with the immediate family and Aunt Helen had the Christmas Eve with her brother and sister and other family members. Aunt Helen was born in Salerno, Italy and was my Uncle Franks (1 of my Mother’s 3 brothers) better half. So for our Christmas Dinner my mother would make an Antipasto of Salami, Provolone, Peppers, and Olives, followed by Baked Ziti and a Baked Ham studded with cloves and Pineapple rings.    The first time I ever had the mystical dinner was about 14 years ago with my cousin Joe, his family and my girlfriend Duyen. We had been talking about this famous Italian Feast a few weeks previous, and were thinking of making it. Joe told me he wanted to have the Christmas Eve Meal of The Feast of The 7 Fishes, known in Italy as La Viglia (The Vigil) or “La Festa Dei Sette Pesci,” which is also known in Italian-America as The Feast of The 7 Fish, the 7 Fish representing the 7 Sacraments.    This Dinner, La Viglia originated in Southern Italy, especially in and around the environs of Napoli. The Feast of The 7 Fish is a Southern Italian tradition that does not exist in the rest of Italy, it is of the South. La Viglia, or “The Feast of the Seven Fishes” as it is known to Italian-Americans commemorates the waiting (Vigil) of the Baby Jesus to be Born at Midnight and the Seven Fish represent the Seven Sacraments of the Roman Catholic Church. Some also believe that the Seven Fish might signify the 7 Days of Creation, or The Seven Deadly Sins, but most believe the 7 Fish pertain to the Seven Sacraments.      So Joe asked me if I wanted to make this festive and all important dinner, to perform the ceremony. He didn’t need to ask twice. I had never made it before and was dying to do so. For a long time I had yearned to partake in this celebrated old Southern Italian Ritual, and this was my chance. Naturally I was excited, so was Joe. So it we had great anticipation of the grand Feast to come and we were filled with happy expectations of the meal to come. And what for the menu? I know Aunt Helen made Bacala, Shrimp Oreganata, Mussels, Baked Clams, Calamari, Octopus, and eel, all much loved Southern Italian (especially Napoli and Sicily) creatures of the Sea. We decided which fish we wanted and how to cook each one. Much thought and planning went into the menu and its execution. Joe wanted; Langoustines, Lobster, and Bacala. Alexandra asked if I would make Stuffed Calamari. We also decided on Shrimp Cocktail, Baked Clams Oreganata, and Cozze al Posillipo. The menu was set. Duyen helped me with the Calamari which we stuffed with Shrimp, parsley, breadcrumbs, and Peas. We braised the Calamari with tomato, white wine, and herbs, and if I must say so myself, the Calamari came out superbly. The Stuffed Calamari were a lot of work to make, but well worth the effort as they were a huge hit with all. The Macari boys, Joey, Edward, and Tommy, as well as sister Gabriella, Alexandra, Little Joey, Duyen, Jose, and Sergio from Barcelona were all in attendance.      The Mussels Posillipo, a great favorite of both Neopolitans and their Italian-American brethren, were cooked with garlic, white wine, parsley, and tomato, of which the sauce is always great to dip your bread into. This dish was one of my mother’s favorites back in the days when few Americans other than those of Italian origins ever ate these wonderful little bivalves. Now-a-days every-body does. As a young boy I remember my mother sending me to Bella Pizza in East Rutherford to get an order of them for her. She always gave me a few mussels to eat, and I have loved them ever since.      Joe helped me to cook the Langoustines. They are hard to find and I had to order a ten-pound box from Silvano in order to get them. The best way to cook langoustines is to split them in half and sauté them on each side in olive oil with a little butter and garlic. We served the Langoustines the same way as Silvano does as we feel his recipe is the best and everybody loves them that way. The Langoustines are served with a salad of thinly shaved fennel and celery dressed in olive oil and lemon with some split cherry tomatoes. Absolutely delicious!!!   The Lobsters we prepared the best way possible, the New England way, steamed and served simply with drawn butter and lemon wedges. There’s nothing better on Earth, well except for Sunday Sauce of course.   Well, that Christmas Eve Dinner The Feast of Seven Fishes was quite a wonderful experience. It was a huge success though quite a lot of work and actually, too much food, everyone was kind of full already by the fifth fish. The following year we decided on incorporating the Seven Fish into three courses instead of seven separate. It was a good decision. We still had 7 different fish, which is a must. Serving these 7 Fish in three courses was a good idea as it is much more manageable that way, both to cook and to eat. So, you will see later on that you can have this great Feast of 7 different Fish in a number of ways; either 7 fish in seven courses or do the 7 fish in three, four, 5, or 7 separate courses, whatever you choose, it’s up to you.    On this particular Feast of The 7 Fish in 3 courses, we decided to make the Stuffed Calamari, which I would not have chosen again because it was a lot of work, but it was Alex’s and Joe’s favorite and they said that it was a must whenever we make the meal. We had the Stuffed Calamari as our Antipasto Course. Alexandra and her mom helped me, so the amount of work was cut down and divided into three. The stuffed calamari took care of two of the seven the shrimp that were stuffed into the squid.  The second course (Primi) of Linguine Frutti de Mare consumed four of the Seven Fish required for the meal. It consisted of Mussels, Clams, Lobster, and Scallops cooked with garlic, oil, herbs, and just a touch of tomato.    The seventh and final fish was fresh Cod that I roasted and served with a sweet and sour onion sauce (Bacala Fresca Agro Dolce). Everybody went bananas for it especially cousin Joe who raved at each and every dish I put down. It’s a pleasure cooking for Joe as his passion for eating and for the Italian-American way of life, the food, the wine, the rituals. Joe truly loves and savors the experience, so I always love to cook for him, Alexandra, their children, or just about anyone for who savors the experience so well. This goes the same for my cousin Anthony Bellino his wife Debbie and their three girls Chrissy, Danna, and Allison, along with all my close friends and family who I share my meals with.    It makes cooking a joy rather than a chore, when cooking for family or friends, you give two of life’s great gifts, a tasty Home-Cooked meal combined with a little bit of love. Scratch that, “A Whole Lotta Love!”    If you don’t want to go so crazy, with 7 Fish as it’s quite an undertaking, you should try to do an odd numbers; 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, or 11. Three (3) is a Nice Number and represents the Holy Trinity of The Father, Son, and Holy Ghost. Basta, e Buon Natale!   EXCERPTED from THE FEAST of THE 7 FISH   by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke

  

The Feast of The 7 Fish

SECRET ITALIAN RECIPES 

SEGRETO ITALIANO

by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke

 

Broccoli Rabe Escarole & Italian Greens

 

 

ITALIAN GREENS

 

If you don’t already know, green vegetables are without a doubt the single best thing you can put in your body. Green vegetables and water, that is. Yes, you’ve gotta have water too.

Yes, green veggies are quite healthy. Italians love all sorts, other vegetables and fruits too. And they prepare their vegetables in a multitude of ways.

Italians, and especially Italian-Americans, love our green vegetables, and we really love greens, like; Broccoli Rabe (Rapini) and Escarole, or Scarola. Any green vegetables that are simply sautéed in garlic and olive oil are great favorites. Along with being immensely beneficial to good health, looking good, and tasting great, these sautéed greens are quick and easy to prepare.

Sautéed greens are the perfect accompaniment to any meat, fish, or poultry entrée and are great on their own or with other ingredients in an antipasto or as bruschetta on grilled or toasted Italian bread. You can prepare Broccoli Rabe, Escarole, Swiss Chard, Green Beans, Broccoli, Spinach, or Beet Greens all in this manner.

 

SCAROLA !

Escarole, in Italian the word is “scarola.” In the Italian American dialect of my father’s generation the word is usually pronounced,”Schka-role.” Few are the young people these days that have ever even heard the word and I wonder how many have ever tasted this leafy green that many of us love so. “Schka-role” is of singular importance in the Italian-American cuisine. In the pantheon of Italian-American foods, escarole is way up there, along with Broccoli Rabe and Eggplant (melanzane). Escarole finds itself in soups, in recipes with beans and in stuffed versions, and sometimes on pizza.

      In our family, my sister Barbara and I are the ones who love sautéed escarole most. It’s simply sautéed with garlic, good olive oil, salt & pepper and “Basta,” that’s it, it’s done and it’s tasty as heck. This sautéed escarole is our favorite side-dish with roast chicken, pork chops, steak, and grilled fish.

One of the best uses ever for “Scarola” is in the whimsical Southern-Italian soup, Italian Wedding Soup with chicken broth, chicken, little meatballs and escarole, “It’s just divine.”

And did you know? “Scarola,” is slang for “Money” in Italian, as in “That car cost a lot of “Schka-Role!”

 

 

SAUTÉED ESCAROLE

 

 

Ingredients:

2 heads escarole washed and roughly chopped

7 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper, ¼ cup olive oil

1. Blanch escarole in boiling salted water for 2 minutes. Drain off water. Drain again and squeeze excess water from Escarole.

2. Sauté garlic in oil until it just begins to brown.

3. Add red pepper and escarole. Sauté escarole over medium heat for about 6 minutes. Season with Salt and black pepper and serve.

 

 

Excerpted from  SUNDAY SAUCE   by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke

[caption id="attachment_854" align="aligncenter" width="555"] RAPINI[/caption]

 

 

 

SAUTEED ESCAROLE and Other Recipes in Daniel Bellino-Zwicke 's SUNDAY SAUCE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SECRET ITALIAN RECIPES

 

in SEGRETO ITALIANO

 

 

 

 

 

JOHNS ITALIAN RESTAURANT East 12th Street

 

JOHN'S of 12th STREET

The MOVIE

WORLD PREMIER

SPECTACLE THEATER

Williamsburg, Brooklyn

New York

JOHN'S

East 12th Street

New York, NY

John's is one of the last of a dying breed of Old School Italian Red Sauce Joints .. John's has been a beloved East Village Italian New York Instituion since 1908, making it one of 

New York's oldest Italian Restaurants of which only a few of many remain. John's is one of them.

John's serves classic Old School Italian American food, including classics like; Clams Posillipo, Baked Clams Oreganata, Lasagna, Spaghetti & Meatballs, Manicotti, and more, including now rare items such as Speedino alla Romano and Veal Sweetbreads.

The wonderful Turn of The Century decor of John's has been lovenly and painstakingly preserved with its 1908 decor still intact. John's is lively and the old school waiters help round out the total picture of Italian Food with great old 1908 decor and animated service from the Black Bowtied Waiters.

Over the years John's has seen the like of; John Lennon, Joe Jackson, Ray Davies, Carol Burnett, Montgomery Clift, Ron Silver, Rockets Redglare, Tom Crruise, Mimi Rodgers, and many other celebrites pass through its doors. Why don't you pass through too? It's great old Italian New York experience.

 

 

LUCKY LUCIANO

 

SUNDAY SAUCE

by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke

SECRET ITALIAN RECIPES

 

 

JOE MASSERIA HITS VALENTI

 

LUCKY LUCINIO Does The DIRTY WORK 

Outside JOHN'S of 12th STREET

Smarting over the recent attempt on his life, which had left two bullet holes through his hat and another two holes through his coat, Joe Masseria plotted bloody revenge in epic Italian Renaissance fashion.

Chief Assassin

The target of his wrath was Umberto Valenti, a seriously wily character who had blasted those bullet holes through Masseria’s hat and coat. According to the New York Times in 1915, Valenti was:

A former Black Hand extortionist, it was rumored that Valenti had killed over 20 men, a number of whom had been Masseria’s closest advisors. The thirty four year old Valenti was the chief assassin of Salvatore “Toto” D’Aquila, the New York Mafia’s supreme ruler, a Mafioso who was locked in vicious mob war with Masseria and his chief strategist Giuseppe “the Clutch Hand” Morello.

However, Masseria’s seemingly supernatural bullet dodging powers had given the hard noised, but superstitious, Valenti second thoughts. Second thoughts that had him suing for peace and walking into an ambush in one of New York’s most storied Italian restaurants, John’s of 12^th Street, on August 11, 1922, a restaurant that has been used as a set on Boardwalk Empire and the Sopranos.

Well Dressed Gunmen 

Whether or not Valenti sampled the chicken parmigiana before being croaked has been lost to the winds of history. However, some time around noon, Valenti and six laughing companions emerged from their luncheon. Walking eastward, smiles turned into frowns. Suddenly, Valenti spooked and bolted towards Second Avenue as two slick, well-dressed gunmen whipped out revolvers and fired. Gangland legend holds that one of the shooters was none other than Charley “Lucky” Luciano, Masseria’s newest protégé (the other shooter was probably Vito Genovese).

 

The FEAST of The 7 FISH

Italian Christmas

 

Pandemonium on East 12^thStreet - In Front of JOHN'S Restaurant

As the shots flew, pandemonium broke loose on 12^th Street. Whirling around, the feared assassin drew a revolver just as a bullet flew through his chest.

A teenage witness told the New York Times:

Luciano’s Escape

Despite Valenti’s death, the friendly Luciano and his pals weren’t done yet. A crowd formed to block the gunmen’s escape so the mobsters opened fire, hitting a street sweeper and a little girl visiting from New Haven Connecticut. The shots dispersed the crowd, and the hitmen disappeared into a nearby tenement.

Should I Bring Pajamas? 

Masseria was arrested for the murder.  During his arrest, he supposedly grinned and asked the police:

… whether he would need a nightshirt remarking, that the last time he slept in the station house they forgot to give him a pillow or pajamas.

For a job well done, Joe Masseria elevated Luciano to a leadership position at his headquarters in the Hotel Pennsylvania. All murder charges were eventually dropped, and Masseria, on his way to becoming Joe the Boss, set his sights on Valenti’s overlord, Toto De Aquila, New York’s boss of bosses.

However, John’s of 12^th had another infamous last meal lined up twenty years later. The victim would be Carlo Tresca.

 

 

 

 

 

BASTA la PASTA !!!!